G Kelly

No Funny Business

Eel and pie shops have eluded me for most of my life, yet always remained in my periphery. I know they’re not for everyone, but if you’re mad for a good bit of stodge, it’s about time to open your eyes to some of the old-school working-class grub still knocking about in London.

G Kelly, deep into East London, is run by the Kellys and has been serving plates of pie & mash, jellied and steamed eel since the 1930s. It is an institution. And one closely associated with West Ham Football Club. A 20-minute walk from the London Stadium, one can easily picture generations of disgruntled or ecstatic West Ham fans tucking into flakey pastry and steaming hot pies.

Bish bash bosh. That’s my most articulate and accurate way of describing the service. Walk in, and you’re greeted by a couple of very friendly no-nonsense ladies. You order at the counter and pay in shock at how cheap it is. 1 pie and mash costs under a fiver. And you can easily indulge here for under a tenner. The ladies serve it up like you’re 10 years old in a school canteen. No funny business. Grab your plate and sit at an available booth.

Let’s start with the jellied eel. Some are squeamish about this. And rightfully so. Let’s just say, I am not disappointed it isn’t still a routine dish in English culture. But if you pop into an eel & pie shop, you must try it at least once. It’s cold, slippery and slimy, but the eel is delicate and nicely salty. Tasting not too dissimilar to sea bass. I see its value as a quick protein-rich snack. But the hot comforting bowl of steamed eel is probably a more approachable alternative to those shuddering whilst reading this.

But you can’t go wrong with the hearty pie & mash. There is nothing better than good old comfort food. The famous duo sits on top of a thin coating of liquor sauce. The three work together in a moment of nostalgia. Cut through the flakey pastry, scoop up some buttery mash, and drown it in the parsley-based sauce. Here, you can’t be disappointed. This traditional dish does exactly what it’s supposed to. You’re left with a feeling of warmth, childish joy and in desperate need of a nap. But there is no time to sleep. Not quite yet. You would be doing yourself a disservice if you left without trying G Kelly’s staple dessert. Apple Crumble. Have it alongside either vanilla ice cream or custard. But I would opt for custard. Pour it all over your buttery crumble. Remember that school dessert you used to love? It’s exactly that. Nothing fancy, just familiar, comforting and very tasty.

Unapologetically sloppy food is one I can get behind. Combine that with a proud family-run heritage, and you’ve got yourself a special place to eat. G Kelly, relatively unchanged for nearly 100 years, is a testament to East London’s history of working-class communities. Its unclipped charm encapsulates a pocket in time that should never be forgotten.

526 Roman Rd, Old Ford, London E3 5ES