Brooklyn Pizza Crew

New York City is like London on roids. It’s a denser, more wild concrete jungle. From bagels to buildings, everything is just that much bigger and bolder. And it ain’t no different with the food. With pancake stacks two feet tall and pretzels as wide as basketballs, New York’s grub eclipses any other city in the size department.

Pizza slices are legendary in New York. They’re the ideal grab-and-go food that has been around in NY since the turn of the 20th century. In the 1930s, when pizza made its way over the Atlantic, it needed to evolve beyond its Neapolitan roots. Traditionally, Neapolitan pizza is cooked in a wood-fired oven and is topped with 3 ingredients. Tomato sauce, fresh basil, and fresh mozzarella. It is then baked at around 800-1000 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperatures result in a light pizza that has a thick, pillowy crust.

But in NY, wood was very expensive. So, gas ovens, which cook at lower temperatures, were used instead. This new method of baking pizza allowed for more cheese to be included in the base. And for a wider range of toppings to be used without being burnt. And in true American fashion, the pizzas were made to be fucking huge. The result was a far cheesier, rich pizza with a thin crust that could satisfy Bigfoot himself. But original pizza parlours found that working people in NY neither had the time, money nor appetite to eat an entire American-style pizza. So, serving slices became the logical next step. This was more practical and far more inclusive to all social demographics living in the city. This is true to this day. In NY, these spots have an important role in serving members of the community.

Brooklyn Pizza Crew’s founder, Seb Eshraghi, moved back to the UK after living in The States for eleven years. When he got home, he missed his authentic New York slice so badly, that he took it upon himself to open up a pizza spot in London and serve them himself. The restaurant is a 10-minute walk away from Parsons Green tube station in West London. It doesn’t look like much on the outside or inside. With a bare type of style that on first appearance seems unfinished. But if you’ve been to Brooklyn, you’d know this rough and ready, understated aesthetic to be all the fashion.

It feels like a spot where Tony Soprano and his crew would pull up a chair, eat and shoot the shit. Without the fear of “getting whacked”. The staff are all accommodating people, but the man directly behind the counter, Evandro is a real charmer. A big guy from São Paulo who is clearly proud of the product he serves to the local community. One smile from him and you feel comfortable. He made my visits far more wholesome and enjoyable.

Evandro and I

Slice City

The pizza slices are freshly baked and changed over every few hours. On the days I popped by, they had pepperoni and margarita ones out on display. But Brooklyn Pizza Crew predominantly relies on whole pizza deliveries to keep business sweet. A leaning tower of cardboard pizza boxes propped in front of a “pizzaresque” Illuminati-looking illustration shows the demand.

The pizza menu is well-varied and serves both vegan and veggie options. You can choose from 12 or 20-inch pizzas. I would highly suggest not ordering the big boy unless you are planning on sharing with at least 2 others. They have a few traditional pizzas, as well as refreshingly unique ones worth a try. The Sophia Loren and Roman Gladiator pictured below are a testament to the versatility of ingredients used here. The contrast between fresh fragrant basil from the former and slices of salty greasy sausage from the latter is a true pleasure. I don’t mind it all.

SOPHIA LOREN PIZZA

Second visit, different tactic. Go for something you wouldn’t usually order. A good measure for a restaurant. I opted for a veggie one decorated with thin strips of ricotta, mushrooms, and sliced tomato. As well as a pizza with some of the richest ingredients you can order. Gorgonzola, sweet apple, rashes of bacon, and crunchy walnuts. Both were delicious, especially when dipped into their homemade garlic mayo sauce. I couldn’t stomach all of it, so after, a friend of mine offered the spare slices to some customers at one of my local pubs. Talk about feeding the community.

If you have a sweet tooth, they also serve a choice of dark, white, or milk chocolate American cookies for dessert. Their cookies are completely different from our native English ones. Far softer, buttery, and chunkier all together.

Brooklyn Pizza Crew is open very late. A rarity among independent pizza restaurants in London. People after a night out sometimes pop in to have a boogie and a slice. I love their vibe and I believe Seb and his staff have beautifully captured the community-feeding ideology that makes pizza parlours so popular in The States. All in all, Brooklyn Pizza Crew has stayed true to New York’s grander reputation and sold me on American-style pizza. I am more than happy for it to settle and grow as an invasive species here in London.

683 Fulham Rd., London SW6 5PZ